Drouet & Fils Ulysse X.O. Grande Champagne Cognac

Grande Champagne is the innermost of the six cognac crus, chalk soil that produces the slowest-maturing and longest-lived eaux-de-vie, and Drouet farm and distil their own there rather than buying in. Ulysse is their XO, aged well beyond the legal minimum in Limousin oak until the rancio character develops, that nutty, faintly savoury note that only comes with real age. Amber, with dried apricot, walnut, candied orange, vanilla and a long, warming finish. Serve it neat in a tulip glass, and give it room.