The Ironstone Pressings 2002 Magnum

d’Arenberg’s flagship red, from McLaren Vale in South Australia: a Grenache-led blend with Shiraz and Mourvedre, drawn from old bush vines on the iron-rich soil that gives the wine its name and, arguably, its savoury edge. Full-bodied and powerful in youth, with kirsch, blackberry, tapenade, dusty earth and pepper. Twenty-odd years on and in magnum, which ages more slowly, it should be richly developed and far more savoury than sweet by now. Decant it well ahead.